The global department store model has faced mounting pressure over the past decade, challenged by e-commerce, shifting consumer behaviour and rising operational costs. Yet in South Africa, Edgars is charting a path toward renewed relevance after a significant business transformation.
Norman Drieslmann, CEO of Retailability. Image supplied
Norman Drieslmann, CEO of Retailability, a South African-based retail group owning several fashion brands, including Edgars, reflects on how the retailer has repositioned itself for modern consumers — focusing on operational discipline, stronger category strategy and a renewed role for physical retail.
Retailability acquired Edgars from the Edcon Group in 2020 after it went into business rescue and currently operates over 170 stores across South Africa.
From scale to discipline
According to Drieslmann, the most significant change in Edgars’ turnaround has been a move away from the traditional department store assumption that scale alone drives success.
“For many years, department stores were built on the idea that bigger was better — bigger stores, broader assortments and a heavy reliance on credit-driven sales,” Drieslmann explains.
“What we recognised early in the turnaround process is that retail has changed. Customers today are more deliberate about where and how they shop and they expect clarity from brands.”
The response has been a disciplined repositioning strategy: right-sizing the store footprint, simplifying product assortments and focusing on categories where the brand already holds strong credibility — particularly fashion and beauty.
Image supplied
“By reducing complexity and concentrating on areas where we have genuine authority, we’ve been able to rebuild a business that is operationally stronger and commercially more sustainable,” he says.
In many respects, the transformation has meant returning Edgars to its core strengths — but with the operational focus required in modern retail.
Balancing modernisation with heritage
With a history spanning nearly a century, Edgars occupies a unique place in South African retail culture. For many consumers, the brand carries strong emotional associations built over generations.
Rather than reinventing the brand completely, the retailer has focused on evolving it in ways that remain familiar to shoppers.
“Modernisation for us has been about relevance rather than reinvention,” notes Drieslmann.
This has included refreshing store environments, introducing contemporary fashion and beauty brands and improving how customers interact with the brand both in-store and online.
Edgars has also been exploring new cultural touchpoints to engage younger audiences. A recent partnership with SuperSport Schools around school hockey is one example.
“School sport brings together players, parents, teachers and communities every weekend. It remains one of the most authentic environments for brands to connect with families,” he explains.
At the same time, Edgars remains conscious of preserving the familiarity and trust associated with the brand.
“Many customers remember shopping at Edgars with their parents or grandparents. That emotional connection remains one of our greatest assets.”
Beauty emerges as a strategic pillar
One of the most notable shifts in Edgars’ category strategy has been the elevation of beauty from a supporting category to a central pillar of the business.
“Globally, beauty is one of the most resilient and profitable retail segments,” the executive notes.
For Edgars, the category offers multiple advantages: consistent footfall, strong margins and a highly loyal customer base.
The retailer has therefore invested heavily in expanding its beauty proposition through new brand partnerships, improved in-store presentation and broader assortments across fragrance, cosmetics and skincare.
Fashion remains the brand’s identity driver, supported by a mix of private-label ranges and carefully selected international brands tailored to the local market.
Private label continues to play a strategic role, allowing the retailer to maintain control over quality, pricing and margins while offering products designed specifically for South African consumers.
The result is a more balanced retail model where fashion builds brand identity, beauty drives frequency and brand partnerships enhance credibility.
Reimagining the role of the physical store
Despite rapid growth in e-commerce globally, Edgars believes physical retail still plays a critical role in its strategy, though that role has evolved.
“Stores today need to do more than simply hold stock,” comments Drieslmann. “They need to create an environment where customers can discover products, interact with brands and receive meaningful service.”
Beauty counters, in particular, have become an important element in-store, creating energy on the retail floor and encouraging customers to spend more time engaging with products.
Edgars has also been investing in store refurbishments designed to improve navigation, lighting and merchandising.
“The goal is to create stores that feel contemporary while remaining easy to shop,” he explains.
When well located within strong malls, the company believes department stores can still serve as anchor destinations that draw customers into the retail environment.
Building an omnichannel future
As consumer shopping habits continue to evolve, Edgars is also focusing on closer integration between its digital platforms and physical store network.
“The future of retail isn’t about choosing between online and physical stores — it’s about ensuring the two work together,” highlights Drieslmann.
The retailer’s strategy is to create a connected ecosystem where customers can move seamlessly between browsing online and purchasing in-store, or vice versa.
While online retail in South Africa is still developing compared with more mature markets, Edgars sees significant long-term potential.
“As logistics networks improve and consumer confidence in online shopping grows, digital retail will continue to expand,” he adds.
For Edgars, however, the goal is not simply online sales growth but using digital platforms to strengthen the overall customer relationship.
The future of the department store
Globally, the viability of the department store model remains the subject of debate. Yet Edgars believes the format can still succeed, provided it adapts.
“In the past, the model was built around scale and endless assortment,” Drieslmann says. “Today success depends on focus, curation and operational discipline.”
In South Africa, the company believes there remains a strong opportunity for a retailer that can bring together fashion, beauty and selected lifestyle categories within a trusted environment.
Looking ahead, Edgars’ priorities remain clear: maintain strong relationships with landlords, continue investing in high-performing stores, strengthen the beauty category and keep the product assortment relevant to local consumers.
“Retail ultimately comes down to consistency,” concludes Drieslmann.
“If we remain disciplined in how we manage the business and stay focused on the customer, the department store format still has a meaningful role to play in South Africa’s retail landscape.”
